Helter Skelter

I’ve got blisters on my fingers.

Yes, despite being awarded the “Golden Hoe” today at the Lugari Community Resource Center (thank you, thank you, hold your applause), my city-boy hands still aren’t quite up to a full morning of turning the soil at the center’s demonstration field.

The LCRC is the brainchild of Khayanga Wasike, a friend of Michelle’s who she met at a BCCIC development drinks in Vancouver. Khayanga is from the town of Musembe, where the center is located, and where we’re staying with Khayanga’s family. The center has many ambitious goals, but currently focuses mainly on training farmers to make better use of their land by planting new and different crops, rotating their fields more often, composting, etc. Most Kenyans farm entirely for sustenance, so trying something different can be very daunting. The demonstration fields allow these farmers to see different crops being grown and harvested which will hopefully compel them to try growing the crops themselves. Better crops not only mean more food for the farmers and their families, but will also hopefully turn into money-making ventures that can provide much-needed income.

Khayanga’s family has been extremely friendly and accommodating. We’re staying in her hut at the family’s main compound. Dung hut. Despite what you think (and what I thought when I first heard it), it’s nicely-appointed and very comfortable. (No, there’s no smell.) All of our meals are being provided and are hearty local fare, usually built around ugali and a stewed vegetable with meat and maybe some potatoes or bananas on the side. We watched the ugali being made last night in the smoky kitchen of the main house. Corn meal is slowly mixed into a pot of water boiling over an open flame until it becomes stiff enough to hold its own shape—a similar consistency to Play-Dough. When it’s ready, you break off chunks of ugali with your hands and use it to scoop up the veggies and meat on your plate. Tasty and very filling.

Our last day in Lake Nakuru national park was lovely and relaxing—lots more water buffalo and impalas, and a visit from a pair of rhinos as the day drew to a close.
Our departure from Nakuru was much less relaxing. We boarded the “Eldoret Express” which was scheduled to leave at 8:30. “Or maybe 9.” But actually 10:30, after we inexplicably switched buses at the station and watched while our bags didn’t. As the time wore on, we realized that nobody seemed concerned that our bags were stranded in the first bus, so I got out to do it myself. But there was no room in the storage compartments of the new bus. So I hoisted them up the side of the bus to Michelle, who was hanging out of an open window and hauled them into our seats. It was a cozy two-hour ride.

When we finally made it to Eldoret (the biggest town near Musembe), we were switched to yet another bus which actually had room for our bags. Which was mostly good, except for the mayhem that ensued when we finally made it to Musembe. White people getting off a bus causes a lot of excitement and many people quickly converge to help you carry your bags. As we were crossing the road with a team of helpers and the bus pulling away, I heard Michelle behind me: “Where’s my bag?” Our eyes shot to the bus now disappearing in the distance.

“Oh.”

Thankfully, we happened to be at a corner used by motorcycle taxis. Once we explained the problem, one of the drivers took off after the bus. He returned about 10 minutes later with the bag slung over his shoulder. As helpful and industrious as we are learning to expect from people here.

By the time our bag arrived, we’d been met by Festus, Khayanga’s younger brother who has been our friend and guide during our stay so far. Our conversations over meals and during walks have been mutually enjoyable and enlightening. And he has a motorcycle, which is a welcome sight at the end of a long, hot day. (Mother’s note: the ride was very slow and safe.)

There is so much more to write about this town and the resource center, but I’m still trying to absorb it all. The generator has shut down for the night and bedtime beckons. Until next time.

For information about the center: http://www.whisca.org/